The Paradox of Sustainable Luxury Retail

If you think of the world’s most iconic brands, they have proactively evolved over the years to ensure they remain relevant in an ever-changing society. Part of that evolution is an increasing awareness of the interconnectedness of everything. That the products we buy have implications for human rights, biodiversity and the very air we breathe.

 I’ve always deeply disliked the word ‘consumer’ as a term that suggests we are no more than individuals that thoughtlessly munch up products and services without consideration – that we are in fact a product in of ourselves. As we progress from being ‘mindless’ consumers to more considered citizens, who recognise that power lies in the products we choose or not to buy, brands have to keep up with our evolving expectations.

 We want products that consider living systems

In the past 20 years, one of those core expectations is our attitude towards sustainability. Okay, this is a much-overused term, but in its essence when we say we want more ‘sustainable’ products, we are asking that they consider living systems and take positive actions to not destroy or disrupt them, and where possible, enhance them.

I’ve long recognised that achieving sustainability in luxury retail is challenging. To some extent, sustainable retail is a paradox, where the economy conflicts with environmental and social aspirations. The economic landscape is challenging, and retailers have a tough task staying relevant, evolving and generating profits, whilst managing complex and diverse supply chains, making thoughtful choices about raw materials and packaging, considering energy sources, and so much more.

Vanity metrics without actions

In recent years, many brands and retailers have made a concerted effort to gather data. To understand the impact of the retail industry, both environmentally and socially. The data speaks for itself. Consumption has accelerated, people own considerably more, and supply chains have become elongated and incredibly hard to trace. I’ve seen so many annual ‘sustainability reports’ that are just that – a report. A set of vanity metrics that have very little to do with real-world actionable solutions that make an actual difference. And yet, there are areas in the luxury retail market where both brands and stores can make a relatively quick and significant impact in reducing their carbon usage and waste: the physical retail space.

A waste of retail space - but there is another way

As part of a brand’s evolving story, it follows that the physical retail space must tell that story – which means updating the space on a reasonably regular basis. Every time a luxury retail space is refitted, it must convey the narrative; be compelling and relevant to both a core base of loyal customers, but also attract new and discerning markets. In doing so, there is SO MUCH WASTE. A luxury store refit can cost hundreds of thousands of pounds and just a year or two later, be consigned to landfill or energy recovery (burnt).

There is another way. If you think about it in design terms, an elegant solution to an evolving brand story, and solving a brands unnecessary refit waste and carbon problem could go hand in hand. Design retail spaces that consider brand values, aesthetic and heritage with the conscious use of materials that can be repaired, reused, refurbished or recycled at the end of life. In our practice, we’ve won awards for doing just that and we call the process ‘Design for Disassembly’ (D4D). We create thoughtful, immersive and aesthetically compelling spaces using circular design principles, to ensure every element of the retail space is designed with both its use - and end of use - in mind.

Sustainable design is simply good design

The design of the future needs to be beautiful, high quality and luxury, but also low carbon, healthy and economically sound. This is not ‘sustainable design’, simply good design. The same principles that any luxury retailer wants to promote to their customers. Design for Disassembly is a compelling way of demonstrating to discerning customers how your brand is actioning sustainability credentials in a tangible and beautiful way; saving money on fit-out costs by creating spaces that can be repurposed and updated without an entire strip-out, and taking one step more to reaching your brands ESG goals.

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Greenwashing: Is it Really that Bad?

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Sustainability: The Numbers Do Add Up